At a glance
- November to February is Purulia's main season, with average days of 24–29 °C, nights of 12–17 °C and almost no rain.
- January is the coldest month; Purulia town's lowest recorded temperature is 3.8 °C, so pack a warm layer for mornings and nights.
- Days are short: the sun sets between about 5 pm and 5.40 pm, so plan to be out of the forest before dark.
- Reservoirs such as Murguma and Baranti draw migratory waterbirds, and the forest department surveys them each winter.
- Tusu ends on Makar Sankranti in mid-January, and the Joychandi Pahar fair runs from 28 December into the new year.
Purulia in winter, from November to February, is the district's main season. Days in Purulia town average 24–29 °C and nights 12–17 °C, and it hardly rains. Clear skies make this the time for sunrises over the Ajodhya Hills, picnics by the dams, waterbirds on the reservoirs, the Tusu festival in mid-January and evenings round a fire. It is also when rooms fill fastest, so book early for the Christmas and New Year week.
How cold does Purulia get in winter?
These are India Meteorological Department (IMD) averages for Purulia town for 1991–2020, with the lowest temperature on record for each month.
| Month | Average day | Average night | Lowest recorded | Average rain |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| November | 28.7 °C | 17.2 °C | 7.7 °C | 19 mm |
| December | 25.0 °C | 12.8 °C | 5.7 °C | 14 mm |
| January | 24.2 °C | 11.8 °C | 3.8 °C | 20 mm |
| February | 28.2 °C | 15.4 °C | 6.3 °C | 15 mm |
December and January are the coldest months. Afternoons are pleasant enough for a shirt, but nights drop to around 12 °C on average, and the record low is 3.8 °C, set in January. These are town readings: early mornings in the forest or on the plateau can feel colder, especially in an open jeep.
The air is dry too, with evening humidity around 52–59% from November to January and 43% in February. Expect dry skin and lips, and dust on the red-earth roads.
Sunrises and short winter days
Winter gives the clearest dawns of the year, but the days are short. These approximate times are calculated for the resort, at the foot of Matha Buru.
| Date | Sunrise | Sunset |
|---|---|---|
| 15 November | about 6.00 am | about 5.00 pm |
| 21 December | about 6.20 am | about 5.05 pm |
| 15 January | about 6.30 am | about 5.20 pm |
| 15 February | about 6.20 am | about 5.40 pm |
With barely 11 hours of daylight, plan sightseeing so that you are out of the forest by dusk. Elephants move through these hills, mostly after dark, and the hill roads are no place to be lost at night.
For a sunrise with a view, the observation tower on Mayur Pahar, 20 km away on the plateau, looks out over the range. Local guides also take early risers to Usuldungri, 29 km away, a viewpoint with a watch tower in the south-east of the plateau. Reaching either for first light means driving in the dark, so go with a local driver. Our guide to sunrise and sunset points in Purulia compares the options.
A winter day on the Ajodhya circuit
Cool weather makes winter the easiest season for the full plateau loop, which is about a day's sightseeing from the resort. The waterfalls usually keep flowing into winter, and the steep climb back from the falls is far easier without the heat.
- Start after breakfast with the Lower Dam (11 km) and the Lahariya Shiva temple below it.
- Drive up the hill road to Turga Falls (11 km) and Bamni Falls (13 km). Bamni's narrow steps are hard going, so allow time for the climb back.
- Continue to Marble Lake (19 km) and the Upper Dam (16 km).
- Have lunch on the plateau at Ajodhya Hill Top (20 km), then walk to Sita Kund and drive on to Mayur Pahar.
- Head down by mid-afternoon so that you are off the hill road before the light goes.
Two stops close to the resort suit a half day. Pakhi Pahar, 6.5 km away, is at its busiest in winter, when the local women's guide group leads walks around the carved hill; in 2023 they charged ₹100 per vehicle and started at about 10 am. The mask workshops of Charida, 10 km away, are at their busiest from November to February.
Winter picnics by the water
Winter is picnic season in Purulia, and the dams and lakes are where families gather.
- Murguma Dam, 37 km. The district administration lists it as a picnic spot with a fine view of the Ajodhya hills, and a walk along the embankment opens up the whole lake.
- Baranti, 120 km. The district notes the lake as a popular winter picnic spot, and people come from Asansol and other nearby towns for day-long outings.
- Upper Dam, 16 km. The embankment road is an easy, level stop on the plateau, and local people say it has become a picnic spot.
- Joychandi Pahar, 95 km. The district lists it as a trekking and picnic spot.
Across the border, Dassam and Hundru falls near Ranchi are at their busiest over the Christmas and New Year picnic weeks. For more ideas, see our list of the best picnic spots in Purulia.
Birds on the reservoirs
Winter brings waterbirds to Purulia's reservoirs. The Statesman reported in January 2024 that birds which once wintered at Saheb Bandh in Purulia town had moved in large numbers to other water bodies, among them Murguma and Turga dams, and that the forest department's waterbird survey would cover them.
- Murguma, 37 km. Migratory waterbirds have gathered on the lake in recent winters.
- Baranti, 120 km. The district notes that its large reservoir draws many migratory birds every winter.
- Sita Kund, 20 km. On the plateau, the district notes colourful birds around the sacred spring, especially in winter.
Go early, keep your voice down and bring binoculars. Our guide to birdwatching in Purulia covers habitats and etiquette.
Winter festivals and fairs
The cool months are full of village festivals and fairs. The district's own calendar lists several.
- Bandna, after Kali Puja (October–November). The cattle festival of the Kurmi, Bhumij and other communities, known as Sohrai among the Santals and Mundas.
- Raas Mela, on Agrahayan Purnima (November–December). A fair in Purulia town celebrating Krishna and Radha.
- Joychandi Pahar Paryatan Utsav, 28 December to 1 or 2 January. A tourism festival and fair at the foot of Joychandi Pahar, 95 km away, with cultural programmes in the afternoons and evenings and a crafts market; the 18th edition had more than 200 stalls. See our guide to Christmas and New Year in Purulia.
- Tusu, ending on Makar Sankranti (mid-January). A harvest festival in which women worship Tusu with images and songs about village life; around Chandil, girls decorate frames of wood or bamboo with coloured paper and offer them to the river. The ruined temples of Deulghata, 44 km away, draw their biggest crowds of the year at Tusu. Read our guide to Tusu Parab.
- Magh festivals (mid-January to mid-February). The district lists Akhan Jatra on the first day of Magh and the Santal festival Magh Sim, among others.
The mask makers of Charida, 10 km away, usually hold their mask festival in winter or early spring, though the dates change, so check locally. Winter is also climbing season: mountaineering clubs have traditionally held rock-climbing courses on Matha Buru between November and March.
Bonfire nights and slow evenings
Winter evenings in the hills are made for staying in. At Rangamati we can arrange a bonfire on the lawn after dinner, with BBQ chicken if you like, and an evening of Chhau, Santhali dance or Baul sangeet. All of these are chargeable and arranged on request, so mention them when you book; see our experiences page.
Keep fires to the spot set aside for them. The forest is dry by late winter, and stray sparks or cigarette ends can start a fire.
What to pack and when to book
- Layers. A warm jacket or fleece for early starts and evenings, a cap or scarf for open vehicles, and light clothes for the afternoon sun.
- Skin care. Sunscreen, lip balm and moisturiser for the dry air.
- Shoes. Comfortable walking shoes for viewpoints, steps and embankments.
- Binoculars, if you plan to look for birds.
Our full list of what to pack for Purulia has more. Winter is the busiest time of year in the Ajodhya hills, and the Durga Puja holidays in October already bring crowds. Book well ahead for the Christmas to New Year week and long weekends, and choose weekdays in January and February if you prefer quiet. The resort can arrange pickup from Barabhum or Purulia Junction station on request.
