Photo: Rangan Datta Wiki, CC BY-SA 4.0
Chhau mask village
The village where Purulia's Chhau dance masks are made by hand
Overview
Chhau mask village
Charida, in the foothills of the Ajodhya range about 5 km beyond Baghmundi, makes the masks of Purulia Chhau, the masked dance UNESCO inscribed as world intangible heritage in 2010. More than a hundred families of mask makers, traditionally of the Sutradhar community, work in open-fronted workshops along the main road, where you can watch masks being moulded and painted and buy them from the people who make them.
The village stretches for about 3 km along the main road, and nearly every house on it doubles as a workshop and shop, some with names like Mukhosh Ghar, 'house of masks'. Walls are hung with gods, goddesses, demons and animals, from palm-sized souvenirs to full dance masks with towering beaded headdresses, some weighing up to five kilograms.
Mask making is a family craft. Men usually shape the moulds and papier-mâché, women do much of the painting and decoration, and children learn by helping. Estimates of the number of makers range from about 115 households to nearly 390 practising artists, depending on the source and year, and artisans say masks sold anywhere in the state come from Charida.
Alongside dance masks, the workshops now make smaller decorative pieces, Kathakali-style masks, the popular 'Santhal' couple masks and even comic-book characters. Many artisans are also idol makers, turning to Durga and Kali images in the hot and rainy months when visitors are few.
Past & present
History & stories
Tradition dates mask making at Charida to about 150 years ago, under King Madan Mohan Singh Deo of Baghmundi. Villagers honour Buddeshwar as Charida's first mask maker, and a statue of him stands in the village. The masks set Purulia Chhau apart: the Seraikella school of Jharkhand uses smaller, simpler masks, and the Mayurbhanj school of Odisha is danced without masks.
Gambhir Singh Mura (1930–2002) of nearby Pitikiri Bamni, the Chhau dancer awarded the Padma Shri in 1981, performed in England, France, Japan and the USA and brought the dance wide recognition; his statue stands in Charida. Some of the village's craftsmen have travelled abroad too, to show their work in countries such as Japan, France and Norway.
From 2013 to 2016 the state's MSME department and UNESCO ran a Rural Craft Hub in Charida, recognising the makers as skilled craftspeople, promoting the village to tourists and setting up a community museum. According to the project, average family income rose from about ₹5,500 a month in 2013 to about ₹9,000 in 2018. The Purulia Chhau mask received a Geographical Indication tag in 2018.
When you're there
See & do
In the porch workshops you can follow the stages: a clay mould dusted with ash, eight to ten layers of glued paper, clay and cloth, drying in the sun, removal from the mould, then painting and decoration. Many workshops set out benches for visitors.
In 2019 prices ran from about ₹20 for small pieces to ₹5,000 for large ones. Dozens of workshops line the road, so it is easy to compare.
A community museum and gallery in the village shows old traditional masks, the history of the mask makers and the stages of the craft.
Look for the statue of the Padma Shri dancer Gambhir Singh Mura in a corner of the village, and that of Buddeshwar, honoured as the first mask maker.
Gallery
Photos
Photos coming soon
We're putting together our own photographs of Charida Mukhosh Gram. Been there with us? We'd love to see yours.
Getting there
From Rangamati
Charida Mukhosh Gram is 10 km by road from the resort, to the north. A local guide, sightseeing cab or driver can be arranged on request.
The pin marks the nearest village; the last stretch is best asked locally.
Before you go
Through the year
Seasons & festivals
March – June
Visitors fall away in the heat: during the April 2024 heatwave, mask sales at Charida dropped sharply.
July – September
A quiet season, when many artisans switch to making Durga and Kali idols because few tourists come.
October – February
The peak season, roughly November to February, when the workshops are busiest and the mask festival is usually held.
Fairs & festivals
Hosted by the mask makers' collective, it opens household workshops to visitors, with Chhau, Jhumur, Natua and tribal dance. One edition ran from 9 to 11 March, 11 am to 7 pm. Check this year's dates locally.
Good to know
Questions
About 10 km by road, through Baghmundi.
Yes. The workshops are open-fronted porches where artisans work in view, and many have benches for visitors to sit and watch.
In 2019 artisans quoted about ₹20 for the smallest pieces and up to ₹5,000 for large masks, depending on size and work. Prices will have moved since.
Usually in winter or early spring. Sources give December, January–February and, for one edition, 9 to 11 March, so check dates locally before planning around it.
Yes. The workshops are along the main road, so little walking is needed, and the craft is easy to follow at close quarters.
Yes. Travellers often see Charida on the way up to the Ajodhya hills, with Turga and Khairabera dams on the route. The resort can arrange a cab or driver.
Make a day of it
Close by
Other places close to this one, so you can see a few in a single trip.
On our suggested itineraries
From our travel journal
Culture & heritageSources: en.wikipedia.org · en.wikipedia.org · purulia.gov.in · incredibleindia.gov.in · outlooktraveller.com · en.wikipedia.org · outlookindia.com · millenniumpost.in · ichngoforum.org · asiainch.org · folklibrary.com · folklibrary.com · en.wikipedia.org · outlooktraveller.com · sangbadpratidin.in · bartamanpatrika.com · en.wikivoyage.org · openstreetmap.org · router.project-osrm.org
Rangamati is your base for the Ajodhya hills — tell us your dates and we'll plan the drive.
